The Style Page interview with Jemma Kidd

Jemma Kidd

1. Your book Jemma Kidd Make-up Masterclass: Beauty Bible of Professional Techniques and Wearable Looks discusses the founding of the Jemma Kidd Make-up School and your three make-up lines: The Jemma Kidd Make-up School, Jemma Kidd PRO, and most recently, JK Jemma Kidd for Target Beauty. What your book doesn’t tell us is how and why you became a make-up artist. What inspired you?

I grew up around modeling and had always been creative and found myself watching the make-up artists behind the scenes wanting to know their secrets. I felt at home backstage – the vibe, the buzz, the people – I just loved it!

2. How did you learn your craft?

I started out in the industry as a model, but I was never really comfortable in the limelight – unlike my little sister Jodie! When I discovered what it was like being on the other end of the make-up brush, I knew I'd found the right career. I was lucky to work as an assistant to make-up supremo Mary Greenwell for five years and was then spotted by Premier Hair and Make Up Agency and taken on their books in 1999. Since then I've worked with leading fashion designers, photographers and a host of prestigious magazines, including American and British Vogue, Vanity Fair and Elle. In 2003 I founded an academy in London to train professional make-up artists and to offer a range of make-up workshops for women of all ages. I have also created three distinctive make-up ranges – Jemma Kidd Make Up School (launched 2005), Jemma Kidd PRO (launched 2008) and JK Jemma Kidd (launched 2008) – which are sold throughout the UK and US as well as in Australia and Hong Kong .

3. Target has carried your JK Jemma Kidd line (along with Petra Strand’s Pixi and Napoleon Perdis’s NP Set) for over three years now. That is a testament to its popularity and longevity. How were you approached to start your JK Jemma Kidd line for Target Beauty in the first place?

My signature Jemma Kidd Make Up School range was retailing in Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus stores when I was first approached by Target to design an exciting new line for them. Target’s concept for the make-up line was “Design for All”; high quality make-up at affordable prices. The JK Jemma Kidd line was inspired by my love of fashion, runway style and colour. The collection fuses hi-fashion, statement colour and runway glamour with professional performance, bringing the catwalk to the sidewalk without breaking the bank. I loved the idea of creating designer products at high street prices and making on-trend beauty accessible to all. Having my brand stocked by a retail giant like Target is a dream come true.

4. JK Jemma Kidd is a departure from your two other make-up lines. It is characterized by “high fashion, statement color, and runway glamour.” How does JK Jemma Kidd complement Pixi and NP Set?

The JK Jemma Kidd line lets women experiment with color. There are always a lot of on-trend colors in the collection, such as Hi-Design Eye Color in Trend and Stylized; vibrant blues and greens are huge trends for fall 2011. We’re constantly adding new colors to the line.

JK Jemma Kidd Hi Design Eye Color for Target Beauty

New "masstige" beauty at Target

I received the September 2008 issue of Lucky, with the beautiful blue-eyed Milla Jovovich on the cover. It is the thickest issue of Lucky ever (I know, I'm a charter subscriber), chock full of ads. One ad that surprised me was the introduction of a line of cosmetics by UK makeup artist Jemma Kidd at Target.


JK Jemma Kidd for Target via Nylon

The URL on Target's web site for JK Jemma Kidd given in the ad isn't operational. A quick search on "JK Jemma Kidd" revealed that JK Jemma Kidd is only one of three cosmetics lines that will debut at Target at the end of the month. The other two are from Australian makeup Napoleon Perdis (his cosmetics line is being discontinued at Sephora) and Petra Strand of Pixi. The three Strand sisters - Petra, Sara, and Sofia - are also the brains behind Pop Beauty.

The Fashion Spot article quotes retail and beauty industry consultant Allan Mottus, who is skeptical about Target's new beauty venture. On recent visits to Target, he saw that the only brands that were well-stocked were those that are exclusive to Target such as Sonia Kashuk and its European bath and body collections.

I don't know what Mottus is talking about. My experience has been that these lines aren't well-stocked. Since the debut of Sonia Kashuk's line, there have been complaints about the erratic stock of her products. It is hard to come by her blending sponge, and there have been placeholders for kits for face and eyes, but no kits.

The amount of shelf space devoted to its European bath and body products has diminished considerably. This suggests that these products have sold poorly. There is intense competition for placement and the amount of shelf space among mass-market brands. Real-time reporting of sales gauge how well a product sells, which is why stores cut back on stocking Revlon's Vital Radiance brand for mature women, leading to the brand's collapse within a year.

I'm anticipating the launch of JK Jemma Kidd, Napoleon Perdis, and Pixi at Target, and I'll be sure to report on it. The prices of JK Jemma Kidd are comparable to those for brands carried at department stores and Sephora - I wonder if Target's customers will buy products at these prices.

Demystifying eye makeup

Perhaps I was a bit critical of Stila's Smoky Eye Palette - I'm not adverse to pricey brands (particularly if they provide something I can't find in less pricier brands) and some folks seem to like the palette. Still, I think it was nervy to insert an audio commercial advertising other Stila products on a $40 item.

That said, eye makeup is the trickiest part of makeup application, and it's to a makeup company's advntage to provide guidance on applying makeup to sell product. Here's a rundown on products with accompanying guidance:


Bare Escentuals Get Started Eyes

Bare Escentuals Get Started Eyes and Bare Escentuals Tutorials - Lesson 1: Smoky Eye provide guidance with the set. I think that the lid and eyeliner shades on the model are great, but I'm not smitten with the pale pink highlighter, especially with deep-set eyes like mine (and the model's). I wish the Chocolate Raisin liner was sold individually - it sounds like the dark-dark brown-plum I love (see also Constant Color Gel Eyeliner)

Jemma Kid Eye Wardrobe Eye Shadow Quartet
Jemma Kidd is a London-based makeup artist. She's also the sister of model, champion polo player, and race car driver Jodie Kidd; great-granddaughter of press magnate Lord Beaverbrook; and wife of the grandson of the current Duke of Wellington - whew! Advice on application may be downloaded from Jemma Kidd's website, as well as her columns for The Mail on Sunday (UK).


Mally Beauty City Chick Smokey Eye Kit

Mally Beauty is a makeup line from celebrity makeup artist Mally Roncal (she's the one who makes Beyoncé always look fabulous). Originally available through QVC, Mally Beauty is available at Amazon.com. Mally Beauty City Chick Smokey Eye Kit comes in five different color themes: Brownstone (browns), Skyscraper (slate/gray), Central Park (greens), Nolita Navy (blues), and Plum Chelsea (guess). Each palette comes with eye shadow base and eye liner pencil.

Pop Beauty Eye Class - Smokey Eyes is the most diversified palette of the lot, and features these shades: jet black, smokey steel gray, sapphire blue, silver, deep plum, deep violet, burnished bronze, emerald green, olive gold, nude glow, opal gold, and sparkling white. Examples of application are provided with the palette.