Developments in sunscreen technology

Cosmetics Design Europe is a great resource for developments in cosmetics formulation. Here are three recent articles concerning sunscreen technologies:

SymHelios® 1031
According to the linked article, SymHelios® 1031 prevents a protein called the Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor (AhR) from inducing long term skin damage. UVB rays are said to cause the amino acid tryptophan to form a toxin that binds with AhR to induce the negative effects of exposure to UVB rays. SymHelios® 1031 is not a UV filter and should not take the place of UV filters.

SymHelios® 1031 was developed by the German company Symrise AG. I could not find any evidence that the FDA has approved SymHelios® 1031. Nor do I know of any products containing SymHelios® 1031. If there are independent studies that support or refute Symrise's claims, please tell me about them.

Solastay S1
Specialty chemicals company Hallstar has launched a new photostabilizer called Solastay S1. Hallstar claims that Solastay S1 enables Octyl methocycinnamate (OMC), a UVB absorber, and Avobenzone, a UVA absorber, to be combined. OMC and Avobenzone are unstable together.

If there are independent studies that support or refute the claims for Hallstar's claims, please tell me about them.

Nanoparticles
Nanoparticles are one of the most controversial topics in cosmetics formulation. Due to the efforts of the Environmental Working Group and companies marketing natural and organic products, consumers have become scared about the use of nanoparticles in cosmetics. However, NANODERM, a project that involves twelve European universities and institutes, has shown that nanoparticles of titanium dioxide, an active ingredient used in mineral sunblock, do not penetrate the skin. Watch this video featuring Professor Tilman Butz of the University of Leipzig (Germany), who led the NANODERM project.

Mineral sunscreens, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, can look ashen, particularly on deeper skin tones. Micronized titanium dioxide minimizes the ashen appearance.

Want more? Cosmeticsdesign.com has a special edition on sunscreens.